Tag Archives: Bandon Dunes

Michael Murphy Riffs, Act 2

With routine maintenance occupying the Bomar Brain, I’ve decided to do the crowd-pleasing thing and post more of my interview with Golf in the Kingdom author Michael Murphy. Our conversation, from 20 months ago, was filmed and recorded at the Warner Bros. studios in Burbank, Calif., not far from the sound stage where Casablanca was filmed. Michael wore jeans and a brown sweater, and he looked much the same as I remembered him — thin gray hair, face not-to-deeply lined for 79, complexion slightly florid, quick to smile.

JG: Are you still playing golf?

MM: Nope.

JG: When did you stop? After we played at Pebble?*

*The novelist and the blogger shared a memorable round, complete with a metaphysically-induced hole-in-one by a third party, at the 1994 Shivas Irons Games of the Links.

MM: I quit four or five years ago. Finally, I — well, you know my game, John. I modeled my swing on Byron Nelson, down the middle and 200 yards. But it’s so boring to be out-driven by 100 yards. Two shots to get to my partner’s drive. I don’t like that, actually. To hell with that!

Royal Portrush

Northern Ireland's Royal Portrush links — another course that could have been the inspiration, but wasn't, for Burningbush. (John Garrity)

JG: Did you have a final round that you knew would be your final round?

MM: I can’t remember. [frowning] No, it’s receded into the misty past. But I make up for it, I walk my four or five miles every day. When you and I played, I was a runner, competing in the over-40 divisions. That took a lot of my time and energy. But now it’s just pride. Some would call it ego. I went out with my brother once, it was in the last year of his life. He had various afflictions. To be 100 yards behind my younger brother, who was in bad shape — it’s humiliating.

JG: But you do remember our round at Pebble Beach?

MM: Very.

JG: And the hole-in-one that Andy Nusbaum made on the seventh?

MM: The only hole-in-one I’ve ever seen!

JG: And since it was part of the “Games of the Links,” you had a flautist and a cellist playing Renaissance music on the tee, and an actor in the role of Seamus McDuff, and I was covering it for Sports Illustrated, and it was all being videotaped. Andy not only got the best-documented hole-in-one in history — it even came with a live musical score!

MM: High point of his life. All downhill after that.

JG: Getting back to Golf in the Kingdom, how much time did you spend on location at Bandon Dunes?

MM: Well, almost four weeks. I think I only missed the last week.

OFF-CAMERA VOICE: Twenty days.

MM: Twenty days?

OFF-CAMERA VOICE: Well, [apparel titan] John Ashworth is a great friend of mine, and I was visiting him down in Carlsbad, and he said, “If you really want to make a low-budget feature of Golf in the Kingdom, go up to this place called Bandon Dunes. It’s just perfect.” I’d never heard of it, so I said, “Well, you’re going to have to call for me.” So he called Mike Keiser, and Mike said, “Have Mindy call me.” And I called him. He said, ‘It’s destiny, come on up.”

JG: Well, anyway, you go up there and they’re making a film after all these years, 38 years. They’re bringing your novel to life. But these are new people with their own vision. What’s that like for you? I mean, you obviously had in your head an idea about the characters and what everything looked like.

MM: Well, it helped me understand why they say, “Keep the damn writer off the set.” I mean, these are two radically different art forms. It’s like two species mating; they can’t mate, but they think they can. So I gained tremendous insight into my own vast incompetence. I mean, to see twenty people or so, every one of them with a job. You have the director, the two assistant directors, the photographer, the assistant photographer, all of them certified pros. Then you have these “grips” with these belts of tools — weird tools that you’ve never seen before, and they’re coming in from different angles. And I realize that the photographer [Arturo D. Smith], who’s a tremendously gifted guy, and the director [Susan Streitfeld] are seeing things that I don’t see — things that I haven’t been trained to see — and they have been doing this for thirty years. So after two or three days, I retired to the sidelines.

JG: You took a knee.

MM: With a great sense of relief. But I had a fantastic time with David O’Hara, who plays Shivas Irons. We practiced meditation together, we had drinks together, we had great talks at night. It was a lot of fun, and it really opened my eyes to the vast amount of skill that goes into a feature film. And the difficulties! God, it’s a miracle that any of these films turn out well. There’s so many moving parts. I use the line — don’t print this, because they’re all watching, including the lawyer ….

JG: I’m good about these things. I understand “off the record.”

MM: Well, I say, “It’s a lot like making love. A lot can go wrong.” [Laughter] My wife’s not going to like that. Whatever. Keep it in.

JG: But you have seen actors, over the years, perform scenes from the book. The Games of the Links was part dinner theater.

MM: Yes, and I’ve always loved that, because I have friends who write screenplays or write for the theater. They write with anticipation of how it’s going to sound. I never did. Golf in the Kingdom was the first book I ever wrote, and it wasn’t really edited. It just came out. But Annie Long, who plays Agatha in the movie, she said, “Boy, you write in such a way that it’s fun to deliver.” And that was so flattering. I don’t know how true it is, but it was flattering. You know, you think it up here [pointing to his head], and then you feel it [pointing to his chest], and then somebody does it. And it’s a wonderful miracle, you know?

JG: But every actor, I assume, brings something different to it.

MM: Right, exactly. And the same for every director and every director of photography. But first and foremost is the actor.

JG: The cast [Malcolm McDowell, David O’Hara, Frances Fisher, Tony Curran, et al.] obviously had the chops for playing these roles. Did they also bring some knowledge of golf to the project?

MM: Well, the young guy who plays Michael [Mason Gamble], he has a nice golf swing and has played a lot of golf. Malcolm McDowell, he plays golf all the time. Six of the cast are Brits, two or three of them Scots-Irish. So there’s a lot of command of the language, and they’re all talented. For the amount of money that was paid, it defies the laws of gravity.

JG: What scenes were they shooting when you were on the site?

MM: Well, I missed the banquet scene. It was primarily David as Shivas Irons and Mason as the Michael character. And Jim Turner as the MacIver character.

JG: People describe movie making as this agony of waiting and waiting to do something, and finally doing it, and then sitting down and waiting some more. Was that your take?

MM: Very much so. I mean, it’s a tough, tough job.

JG: Would you have the temperament for that?

MM: I doubt it. I can sit and write all day — but see, I’m in charge of everything. The author is the producer, the director, the actor, he’s everything. So to be out there with the movie makers and to be reduced to a mere widget — well, I’m not trained for that. So I just rooted from the sideline. Once I owned up to the staggering size of my incompetence, I actually had a very good time.

Speaking of staggering incompetence, the Top 50’s IT director just stopped by to tell me that the latest shipment of fanfold paper was folded wrong side out. I’ll pick up the Murphy interview again in a couple of days. Meanwhile, if any of you have actually seen the movie, I’d welcome a short review.

Top 50 on TV: Nothing this week, but the PGA Championship will be contested  on the 512th-ranked Highlands Course at the Atlanta Athletic Club in Johns Creek, Ga. Informed this afternoon that this is the first major to which fans can bring cell phones, Masters champion Charl Schwarzel said, “Every single phone these days has got a silent mode, so put the thing on silent. That’s about all I can say.”

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Murphy Riffs on Golf in the Kingdom Links Courses

Old Course eighteenth green

Burningbush, aka "the Old Course," is No. 16 on current list. (John Garrity)

The long-awaited release of Golf in the Kingdom, the movie version of Michael Murphy’s lyrical golf novel, has us jumping here at Top 50 headquarters, as we struggle to keep up with media inquiries about certain links courses. Consequently, the ranking itself has not yet been adjusted. Routine summer maintenance on the Bomar Brain has also slowed us down, as has a totally unexpected August heat wave. Yesterday’s high of 109 in Kansas City, a record for the day, forced me to send workers home early.*

* It is company policy to subsidize only fifty percent of an employee’s personal-cooling costs.

Frustrated by the delays, I personally ransacked Catch Basin until I came up with the  transcript of an interview I conducted with Murphy twenty months ago on the Warner Bros. studio lot in Burbank, Calif. The interview, which was filmed for a “Making of” documentary, delved deeply into metaphysics and therefore was largely unintelligible to anyone lacking a graduate degree. But the author and I touched upon golf and links courses, including the top-ranked layouts at Oregon’s Bandon Dunes Golf Resort, where the film was shot. Here, then, are edited excerpts from that interview, with Murphy’s grammar corrected as needed:

JG: Tell me a little about Bandon Dunes and what it was like as a setting for this film.

MM: It is ravishingly beautiful. I mean, when you see the film, it’s just gorgeous. The courses themselves are staggeringly beautiful, but they’re also photogenic. Certain people are gorgeous up front, but they don’t photograph well, and vice versa.

JG: Interestingly enough, the great links courses are often in that category.

MM: Yes. You mean that they don’t come out?

JG: Right. They’re spectacular in person, but on film everything gets flattened out.

MM: Exactly. A lot of people see St. Andrews for the first time, and they’re — “This?” [Look of utter bafflement.] But you see the course in another aspect and “Wow!” So no, absolutely. That’s a great observation. But Bandon Dunes is both beautiful to the eyeball and beautiful to the camera. [Developer] Mike Keiser and all his people, it was just a stroke of genius putting those courses together. And [land planner] Howard McKee, who I knew before — he did a master plan for the Esalen Institute back in the late seventies — so we were very lucky to have those courses. Have you been up there?

JG: I haven’t had the chance.

MM: Oh, John, you’ve got to get up there. You’ve got a treat when you see it. And this new one, Old Macdonald, it might be the most beautiful one of all.

JG: So how did this come about?

MM: Well, I had known Howard years back, and Howard had found these properties on the Oregon coast for Mike Keiser. And Mike was devoted to Golf in the Kingdom. So there was that connection. And one of the people who worked up in Bandon while we were filming told me that Howard, before they had built any of the courses, insisted that he read Golf in the Kingdom. This was, you know, 12 years ago. Howard said, “Someday that movie’s going to be made up here.” So he had an intention.

JG: But in the decades after the book became a hit, where had you envisioned the film being made?

MM: Well, Clint Eastwood [who plotted for years to direct the movie] went over to St. Andrews with, I think, Jack Nicholson and Sean Connery. I know he explored three different courses. Clint had thought of Crail. Do you know Crail?

JG: Yes, I’ve played there.*

Pointless understatement. The Balcomie Links at Crail is a perennial Top 50 standout and one of my all-time favorites.

MM: Now, at Crail they’re convinced that’s where I got inspired to write Golf in the Kingdom. They believe that Crail is Burningbush.

JG: The locals like to point out this hollow where [golf pro/mystic] Shivas Irons lurks.

MM: There is a par 3 up on the hill with a cave underneath. How I fished that up out of the deep, writing the book, I don’t know. It came in a rush. But it’s just a curious coincidence. I had never heard of Crail. Burningbush is actually St. Andrews. That was my model. And the various people who owned the options on the book over this long period always visualized it being filmed in Scotland. But it wound up being a low-budget, independent film, so Bandon Dunes was a marriage made in heaven. You can never tell how a film’s going to do, but those courses are going to be shown to great advantage. They’re gorgeous.

Reading these excerpts, I find that I rather enjoy playing the role of Charlie Rose. That being the case, I’ll post some more of my Murphy interview in a couple of days. In the meantime, I’ve moved the Bomar Brain to a climate-controlled room, ready for re-booting. I’ll post the updated rankings as soon as they’re available.

Top 50 on TV: Nothing this week, but Tiger Woods, No. 28, returns to tournament golf at the Bridgestone Invitational, played on the 728th-ranked, 7,400-yard South Course at Firestone Country Club, Akron, Ohio. Woods claimed his famous “shot in the dark” victory on Firestone’s eighteenth hole, finishing the 2000 WGC-NEC Invitational in the glow of butane lighters. The club later upgraded to tiki torches.

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Golf Gadfly (Bill Amick) Gets His Due

“You made a joke in SI about Heritage Classic winners looking ‘bad in plaid,’” writes a reader from the Vatican City. “The proper term is ‘tartan,’ but that’s beside the point. You shouldn’t ridicule a garment that symbolizes achievement or high attainment.”

Two sentences, two complaints. Yes, I “joked” about the gaudy blazer using “plaid” instead of “tartan”, but that’s because the rhyme for tartan wouldn’t have gotten past my editors. As for the argument that tartan blazers should command respect, I say, “Only if it’s the Donald Ross tartan worn by members of the American Society of Golf Course Architects.”

Bill Amick at ASGCA meeting in Denver

Bill Amick, left, can wear plaid.

The Ross tartan, modeled by former ASGCA president Bill Amick in the adjoining photograph, is a particularly distinguished variant of the Highlanders’ weave. The man wearing it, I might add, is a particularly distinguished member of the ASGCA, inasmuch as he is shown receiving the architects’ Distinguished Service Award in Denver at their 65th annual meeting. Amick, in his 52nd year as a golf architect, is only the fourth pasture-plower to receive the DSA.

Amick is well known to followers of the Top 50. Gut Heckenhof Hotel und Golfresort, in Germany’s Rhein-Sieg National Park, is currently No. 20, while his tasteful redesign of Ross’s Hillcrest Country Club in Kansas City, Mo., is 45th. The second 50 pays tribute to four more Amick courses:  No. 53, Killearn Country Club, Tallahassee, Fla. (longtime venue for PGA Tour, Champions Tour, and LPGA events); No. 68, Sky Meadow Country Club, Nashua, N.H. (deemed the best course in New Hampshire by Golf Digest); No. 89, The Vineyards Country Club (South Course), Naples, Fla. (a former Champions Tour site and Golfweek honoree); and No. 97, Mangrove Bay Golf Course, St. Petersburg, Fla. (a Golf Digest Top-50 public track).

But it is Amick’s contribution to the debate about golf’s future that is his real legacy. For decades he was the lonely gadfly waving the red flag while his peers poured billions of dollars into courses that were too long, too hard, too remote, too exclusive and too expensive to maintain. When Jack Nicklaus proposed a shorter version of golf using his limited-flight “Cayman ball,” only one architect answered the challenge by building an 18-hole course for its use.* That man was Bill Amick.

Eagle Landing Golf Club, Hanahan, S.C. 

German golf course Gut Heckenhof

Amick's Gut Heckenhof is plenty goodenof.

“In these times of a slower economy and lower golfer participation,” Amick told his colleagues in May, “many areas have enough championship courses. However, the game could use more courses that are easier, faster to play, and which have lower fee to encourage and keep new golfers of all ages. Smaller courses will not replace the standard 18-hole par 72 model, but will compliment and supplement those larger courses.”

Those smaller courses, Amick was too polite to suggest, could be built on the fallow land left by bankrupt golf developments.

But I digress. The reader is right, honorific garb should be given a pass by the fashion police. I might even slip on a green jacket, if offered the right incentives.

Top 50 on TV: Nothing this week, but the U.S. Public Links Championships (Golf Channel) for men and women are drawing to a close on Mike Keiser’s 55th-ranked Old Macdonald in Bandon, Ore. Old Macdonald shares the four-course Bandon Dunes Golf Resort with 26th-ranked Pacific Dunes, Tom Doak’s contribution to Keiser’s dream of an American linksland.

Next week, the cameras descend upon No. 7 Castle Stuart Golf Links, the new home of the Barclays Scottish Open. Castle Stuart is the eighth course in the current Top 10 to serve as a venue for elite-level competition and the first course to achieve that recognition on the strength of our Top 50 imprimatur. So we’ll be watching.

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Askernish Retains Hold on Top Spot

“My game is coming back since returning from Scotland,” Top 50 staffer Dave Henson writes from Hilton Head, S.C. “Haven’t been in the 70s yet, but low to mid 80s. It seems I developed a strong left hand grip somewhere – probably from trying to drive the ball into 75 mph winds.”

Dave Henson at Askernish

Top 50's Henson celebrates at Rainbow's End. (John Garrity)

My old friend refers to a rather gusty mid-summer round at Castle Stuart Golf Links, No. 9, during my Top 50 Audit of Highly-Ranked Links Courses. That round in the Scottish Highlands, I should point out, was the only one in which conditions were severe enough to actually wreck one’s swing. The winds at Royal Dornoch, Nairn and Askernish never exceeded 40 mph, and there were intervals of relative calm when we could talk in normal tones and Dave could light his pipe without burning his hand. But the most rewarding birdies and eagles, as I think even galeaphobic Dave will agree, are those produced in hurricane-force winds. (See photograph, left.)

Unfortunately, Dave had to return to the States after our three-day inspection of top-ranked Askernish Old, the Old Tom Morris-designed ghost course on the Hebridean isle of South Uist. Health was an issue for my right-hand man, who had to endure the indignities of free and attentive treatment from a nurse-practitioner at a village clinic, followed by the prompt filling of an outrageously cheap prescription for his bronchitis. “Socialized medicine at its worst,” Dave grumbled, pining for the ninety-dollar meds and hour-long waits of home.

Askernish, in contrast to Dave, was in great shape. Greenkeeper Alan MacDonald had the greens rolling at a bouncy 5 or 6, and the fescue roughs were hacked down to a height that would barely conceal a dozing poet. Three years of dedicated labor have pushed most of the rabbit warrens to the boundaries of the course, so it’s no longer a common occurrence to have a border collie chase a hare between your legs as you address the ball. “It’s really coming around,” said Ralph Thompson, the affable chairman of the Askernish Golf Club. “It wouldn’t hurt you to pay the green fee.”

J Garrity putting at Askernish Old

Garrity on Old Tom's Pulpit: "Do you see a break?" (Dave Henson)

Since Askernish is closer to a perfect 10 than any other course, you might expect an air of complacency. Instead, the locals have jumped on an offer from famed course designer Tom Doak to lend staff and material resources to their restoration effort. As the Hebridean winter closes in, Doak’s team will work with MacDonald and British architect Martin Ebert (who designed the six new holes that lead up to Old Tom’s sublime stretch of seaside holes) on a subtle tweaking of the ancient links. As I write this, it’s not clear whether the work will start before or after the local crofters drive their livestock onto the course for their winter keep.

No matter. Based upon its summer condition and Dave’s scribbled report, Askernish retains its number one ranking and improves on its previous record score, edging down .03 points to 10.15.

Top 50 on TV: Nothing this week, but every time I turned on a set last week it was tuned to [the] Golf Channel’s “Golf in America.” For some reason, an audio-visual team had followed SI senior writer Alan Shipnuck and a friend as they played all four courses at the Bandon Dunes Golf Resort — including Tom Doak’s Pacific Dunes, No. 26 — in a single day.* (Spoiler Alert: It ends with Shipnuck walking into his motel room and falling face-first on the bed — a scene that would have been lost to posterity but for the fortuitous pre-placement of the video crew and their equipment.) If you missed this tribute to sore joints and sunburn, I invite you to read Shipnuck’s SI Golf Plus report on his long day, titled “14 Hours, 21.7 Miles, 2 Barking Dogs”, at Golf.com.

*Not to complain, but I’ve played several rounds with Shipnuck in recent months — most notably at Kingsbarns, No. 40, and Erin Hills, No. 23 — without drawing even a flicker of interest from [the] Golf Channel. Maybe their cameras would follow me around if I played all the crummy courses from my near-best-seller, America’s Worst Golf Courses, finishing up at the very worst, the Ft. Meade (Fla.) City Mobile Home Park Golf Course.**

**For TV, I would need an appropriate playing partner. Charles Barkley? Ray Romano? Tiger Woods? Send me your ideas.


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